Timber Garden Gate
A solid braced or slatted garden gate that opens and closes properly for years. The single most common point of garden timber failure — done right, it lasts decades; done wrong, it sags within a season.
What you'll need
Materials
- Frame stock (47×95 or 47×120mm typically), boarding or slats for the face, diagonal brace, stainless or heavy galvanised T-hinges or strap hinges, latch hardware, optional cap rail.
Tools
- Drill/driver, mitre or hand saw, spirit level (long), square, clamps (essential — at least two long), tape measure, hinge fitting drill bits if mortising.
Material complexity: Medium
Order one full spare board length — gates are unforgiving of split or knotty boards at fixing points.
Main risk: The diagonal brace fitted in the wrong direction (tension instead of compression) — guaranteed sag within months no matter how good the timber is.
Tips & traps
- Brace running the wrong diagonal (top hinge corner to bottom latch corner) — gate sags within months.
- Undersized hinges.
- No clearance under the gate when new — first wet season swells the timber, the gate jams.
- Hinging from a post that isn't plumb or solid.
- Skipping finish on end grain top and bottom.
Planning & timber detail
Why build this?
A garden gate is the most-used piece of timber on a property. Done right with a properly braced frame, oversized hinges and a finish that gets refreshed every few years, an oak or iroko gate lasts 30+ years. Done wrong, it sags within a season and gets replaced repeatedly. This project teaches the small but critical details that separate the two outcomes.
Where it works best
Hung from a solid, plumb post (75×75mm minimum, 100×100mm preferred for taller gates). The post matters more than the gate — a bombproof gate on a wonky post still sags.
Planning notes
Decide hinge side based on which way the gate should swing — into the property is more secure, into the street is rarely permitted. Self-closing hinges add safety for pool/pond enclosures.
Typical sizes
Standard hung-from-fence side gate: 900×1800mm with 47×95mm frame and 18×100mm vertical boarding. Allow 5–10mm clearance each side from the post and underneath.
Suitable timber options
Oak — beautiful, heavy, decades of life. Iroko — slightly less weight, comparable durability, more affordable. Cedar — light, easy to work, less durable but pleasant on a low-use back garden gate. Treated redwood — utility gates only.
Fixing and finishing
Through-bolt the hinges to the gate stile — coach screws aren't enough for the leverage. Use the heaviest hinges you can afford; they cost relatively little versus the gate timber.
The diagonal brace MUST run from the bottom hinge corner UP to the top latch corner — it works in compression. Reversed, the brace is in tension and pulls the gate apart. This is the single most-missed detail in DIY gates.
Maintenance
Lubricate hinges twice a year with marine grease. Re-tighten hinge bolts after the first season. Re-oil before the finish goes chalky.
Drop a drop of marine grease on hinge knuckles each season. Replace any hinge that becomes stiff or rusty — they're cheap and the gate's lifespan depends on them.
Timber behaviour
Durability
UC3 minimum throughout; UC4 if the bottom of the gate ever touches the ground. The detail that matters most: keep the bottom of the gate 50–80mm clear of the ground at all times (no sagging).
Movement
A gate that doesn't accommodate movement WILL sag or stick. Use a properly braced frame with a diagonal compression brace from the bottom hinge corner UP to the top latch corner. This is the single most important construction detail.
Go deeper
Get the Timber Buying Companion
An 8-page practical guide to choosing better boards, avoiding waste and spotting common timber problems before you buy.