A ventilated, roofed timber store for seasoning and dry storage of firewood. Slatted sides for airflow, a sloped roof, and a raised floor — the three details that turn green wood into burnable seasoned logs.
Material complexity: Low
Allow 10% on cladding battens. Roof felt is sold by the metre — get an extra metre.
Main risk: No airflow under or through the stack — green wood stays green, and the bearers rot.
Single-bay 1200×600×1500mm. Confirm on site.
Lay two 75×75mm bearers on paving slabs, 1200mm apart to match the width. If they must sit on soil, they need UC4 timber (timber that sits in soil or stays wet). Check they are level side-to-side.
Watch out: Bearers on wet soil are where log stores die. Slabs are cheaper than rebuilding.
Cut two front posts at 1500mm and two rear posts at about 1700mm. Join them with 47×75mm rails. The extra rear height gives a 10° roof fall across 600mm. Check diagonals before you slat anything.
Fix 20×95mm slats with 10–15mm gaps so wind can move through the pile. One screw per slat per rail. Do not close the back tight against a fence — leave the slats as an air face.
Tip: A spacer block is faster and straighter than eyeballing every gap.
Screw floor slats across the bearers with gaps. Logs must sit off the ground so air can get under the stack. This is the difference between firewood and a mushroom farm.
Fit a ply or slatted deck 1400×800mm so you have 100–150mm of overhang at the front. Cover with felt or corrugated bitumen using roofing nails or screws with washers. Sweep the floor each summer when stock is low.
Tip: Re-felt before the old felt cracks — typically every 5–7 years. Check the bearers each spring.
A log store does one thing — keep wood dry and ventilated — and does it for decades if built right. It is the single biggest factor in whether a wood burner runs efficiently.
Against a south or west-facing wall is ideal for drying. Avoid deep shade. Needs prevailing wind to blow through it, not at it — orient so the open front faces away from the wind.
Site so the open front faces away from prevailing wind and rain. Allow airflow on all sides — do not push it against a fence or wall on the back face. If it sits on grass, put paving slabs under the bearers.
Default single-bay: 1200mm wide × 600mm deep × 1500mm to the front. Rear posts a little taller so the roof falls at least 10°.
1m³ of cut logs is roughly a 1×1×1m cube. This store holds a little more than 1m³ once you allow air gaps between the logs.
Default single-bay: 1200 × 600 × 1500mm at the front.
Roof fall: at least 10° front to back.
Front overhang: 100–150mm.
Floor: at least 100mm off the ground.
Single-bay (this page) — about 1m³. Weekend build.
Double-bay — 2400×600×1500mm, about 2m³. Add a centre post and a second set of rails.
Against a wall — still leave an air gap behind the back slats. Do not push the store tight to a fence.
Treated redwood is the practical default. Larch is harder and longer-lived if you don't mind the upfront cost. Cedar for kerb appeal in a visible spot.
Stainless or coated structural screws. For the roof, use proper roofing nails or screws with washers — not generic woodscrews. Frame 5.0×80mm; slats 4.5×50mm, one per rail, 25mm from ends.
Slope the roof at least 10° front to back so rain runs off cleanly. Overhang the roof 100–150mm beyond the front to protect the logs from driving rain. Pitched is even better but more work.
Sweep out the floor each summer when stock is low. Check the roof felt every 2 years — replace before it cracks. Re-coat any finish every 2–4 years.
Re-felt every 5–7 years. Check the bearers for rot every spring — that's where ground-contact failure starts.
Durability
UC4 for any timber touching the ground (the bearers) — UC4 means timber that sits in soil or stays wet. UC3 for the frame and cladding — UC3 means timber kept off the soil. Raise the floor at least 100mm so air can move underneath. Better: sit the bearers on paving slabs so nothing is in the soil.
Movement
Standard slatted-cladding movement applies. Roof deck should be allowed to move slightly relative to the frame to prevent felt cracking.
An 8-page practical guide to choosing better boards, avoiding waste and spotting common timber problems before you buy.